Guarantee safe & secure checkout
Spend More, Save More — Up to 20% Off
Click a discount code to copy · Apply at checkout
Thank you for your purchase. We hope you are happy with your purchase. However, if you are not completely satisfied with your purchase for any reason, you may return it to us for [a full refund], or [an exchange]. Please see below for more information on our return policy. Please see below for more information on our return policy.
RETURNS
All returns must be made within [30] days of the delivered date. All returned items must be in new and unused condition, with all original tags and labels attached.
RETURN PROCESS
To return an item, please email customer service at support@metavaya.com to obtain a Return Merchandise Authorization. place the item securely in its original packaging, and mail your return to our warehouse.
Please note, you will be responsible for all return shipping charges.
REFUNDS
After receiving your return and inspecting the condition of your item, we will process your [return] or [exchange]. Please allow at least [7] days from the receipt of your item to process your [return] or [exchange]. Refunds may take 1-2 billing cycles to appear on your credit card statement, depending on your credit card company. We will notify you by email when your return has been processed.
EXCEPTIONS
The following items cannot be [returned] or [exchanged]:
For defective or damaged products, please contact us at the contact details below to arrange a refund or exchange.
Please Note：Sale items are FINAL SALE and cannot be returned.
If you have any questions concerning our return policy, please contact us at: support@metavaya.com
At Metavaya, we provide comprehensive customization services to ensure your lighting perfectly fits your space and style. Whether you prefer modern minimalism, industrial chic, or timeless elegance, we are here to craft unique lighting fixtures that bring out the best in your space.
Start by connecting with our experts via live chat or email and share the following details:
We’re here to help you every step of the way!
Q: How much does custom lighting cost?
A: Pricing depends on the complexity of the design, materials, and dimensions. Contact us for a personalized quote.
Q: What is the production and delivery time?
A: It typically takes 4 to 7 weeks, depending on the order's complexity.
Q: Do you offer global shipping?
A: Yes, we provide worldwide shipping, with fees calculated based on destination and order size.
Contact us today to begin creating your bespoke lighting fixture, and let Metavaya illuminate your space with brilliance and style!
Selecting the right size light fixture is essential to achieving both functional lighting and balanced aesthetics. A fixture that’s too small can feel underwhelming, while one that’s too large can overwhelm the space. Use the following guidelines and tips to find the perfect light fixture size for your room.
1. Calculate the Diameter
Use this simple formula to determine the ideal diameter for your light fixture:
Example: 18 feet (Room Length) + 12 feet (Room Width) = 30 feet; The chandelier should be about 30 inches for its diameter
2. How to determine the chandelier’s height
To find the ideal height for a fixture:
Measure the space’s floor to ceiling distance in feet, multiple by 2.5 will be the approximate height for the chandelier in inches. This rule mainly apply to pendant style chandelier while not necessarily apply to ceiling style chandelier.
Example: For example 10 feet (Room Height), 10*2.5 = 25 The chandelier should be about 25 inches for its height
3. How to determine the appropriate height for hanging a chandelier
If you are hanging the chandelier on an open floor, chandelier’s bottom should at least be 7.5 feet away from the floor.
If you are hanging the chandelier above a dining table or kitchen island, chandelier’s bottom should be 30 to 36 inches away from the tabletop.
Besides those general rules that apply to most spaces, there are other rules and tips for different areas, like what size chandelier should be used for the dining room and what about foyers?
Dining Room & Kitchen island
If you are hanging the chandelier above your dining table or kitchen island, you can also decide the size of the chandeliers based on the size of your dining table or kitchen island. We generally recommend that the length or diameter of the chandelier should be between 1/2 and 3/4 of the length of the dining table or kitchen island.
For example, let's say that you have a dining table with 60 inches in length. The chandelier should be between 30 (60 x 1/2) to 45 (60 x 3/4) inches in diameter or length (Same here 1/2 to 3/4 of the kitchen island length)
Two-Story Foyer with Staircase
Besides the general rule that the chandelier’s bottom should be at least 7 and a half feet away from the floor. For two stories, what you also need to consider is how will it look from the second floor. In general, staircase chandeliers will be a good choice for space. In term of placing, below are two commonly seen guidance:
Long Hallways
Chandelier size for hall ways should be determined by the width of the hallway. Multiple the hallway’s width in feet by 2.5 will be the diameter of the chandelier in inches.
For example, the hallway’s width is 8 feet. The chandelier’s diameter should be about 20 (8 x 2.5) inches
If you want to decorate with chandelier for your long hallways. We always recommend having them
Important Note: The features described below apply generally to our lighting fixtures. They do not guarantee that the specific product you are viewing includes these features. Please refer to the Description section of the product page to verify its functionalities.
Dimmable Version:
Three-Color Switch-Controlled Version:
Color temperature defines the visual tone of light, influencing the ambiance and functionality of your space. Here's a guide to help you choose:
Warm White (2700-3300K):
Provides a soft, inviting glow, ideal for creating cozy and relaxing atmospheres in living rooms, bedrooms, and dining areas.
Neutral Light (3300-5300K):
Offers bright, balanced illumination similar to natural daylight. Perfect for kitchens, bathrooms, offices, and retail spaces where clarity and focus are key.
Cool White (5300-6500K):
Produces a crisp, energizing light, enhancing focus and productivity. Best suited for task-oriented spaces such as workshops, garages, and display areas.
Tip: Select the color temperature based on the activities and mood you want to establish in your space to ensure both functional and aesthetic harmony.
Install on solid brick or concrete. NO hollow bricks or gypsum boards. Ensure wall flatness within 0.5mm error.
Confirm bracket hole positions before drilling. Sizes vary by fixture. Each ceiling plate requires specific measurement for alignment.
Standard Duty: ≤15kg. Heavy Duty: 30-50kg. Fix every 40-50cm. Double-person install required for large appliances.
Chandeliers are a timeless addition to any home, offering both style and function. Whether installed above a kitchen island, a dining table, or in a hallway, Chandelier can transform your space. At Metavaya, we want you to feel confident throughout the installation process. Follow our step-by-step guide, and you’ll soon enjoy a beautifully illuminated room!
Step 1: Preparation
Before starting, ensure you have all the tools and follow safety protocols.
Tools You’ll Need:
Ladder, pliers, wire strippers, screwdrivers, power drill(optional), a drill bit(optional)
Safety First:
Turn Off Power: Shut off power at the breaker panel for the room you’re working in.
Test for Power: Use a voltage tester on the wires or fixture to confirm no current is flowing.
Remove the Old Fixture: Carefully unscrew and disconnect the existing light. Retain screws or mounting hardware, as they may be helpful for the new fixture.
Step 2: Assemble the Chandelier
Lay out all parts and assemble your fixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Organize Components: Spread all parts on a flat surface for easy access.
Pre-Assemble Parts: Attach rods, chains, or decorative elements, and set the hanging height to your preference.
Secure Decorations: Attach shades, crystals, or other decorative elements while on the ground to simplify installation.
Step 3: Install the Mounting Bracket
The mounting bracket is vital for a stable and secure fixture.
Attach the Bracket: Secure it to the ceiling junction box using screws provided.
Check Stability: Gently pull on the bracket to ensure it’s firmly in place. For heavier fixtures, use a fan brace or additional support.
Step 4: Connect the Wiring
Wiring is a crucial step—take care to follow these guidelines:
Identify Wires:
Black: Live/hot wire
White: Neutral wire
Green/Bare Copper: Ground wire
Wiring Instructions:
Ground Wire: Connect the pendant’s ground wire to the junction box’s ground wire and secure with a connector.
Neutral Wires: Twist the white wires together and secure with a wire connector.
Live Wires: Connect the black wires and secure them.
Double-Check Connections: Tug each connection gently to ensure they are secure and no bare wires are exposed.
Tip: If you’re unsure about wiring, consult a licensed electrician.
Step 5: Attach the Chandelier
Mount your fixture onto the bracket.
Secure the Fixture: Align the pendant with the mounting bracket and use screws or nuts to fasten it.
Adjust Alignment: Check that the pendant hangs level and at the correct height before tightening fully.
Step 6: Finalize Setup
Add the finishing touches to your fixture.
Insert Bulbs: Use the recommended wattage and type for your Chandelier.
Attach Shades or Covers: Secure any shades or covers not attached earlier.
Stability Check: Ensure all components are secure and the fixture hangs level.
Step 7: Test Your Light
Restore power and enjoy your new lighting!
Restore Power: Switch the breaker back on.
Flip the Switch: Turn on the Chandelier to check functionality.
Make Final Adjustments: Step back to assess height and alignment, and make any necessary tweaks.
Additional Tips for Chandelier Installation
Optimal Heights:
Support for Heavy Fixtures:
Ensure your ceiling junction box and bracket can support the pendant’s weight. For heavy fixtures, use additional reinforcement like a fan brace.
Professional Assistance:
If you’re unsure about wiring or want to ensure compliance with building codes, hire a licensed electrician for peace of mind.
Step 8: Check
Congratulation, you have completed the installation for your chandelier! One last thing to do is to check it from a distant just to make sure that the chandelier is leveled and at proper height. Make additional small adjustment as needed. After ensuring safety, you can turn on your house’s power switch and the light switch for the chandelier. Now you can enjoy the beautiful chandelier that you just installed for your home.
We hope this blog will be able to provide you an overall view about the chandelier’s installation process as well as step by step guidance when you are doing the installation. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us and we are always here to help!
Please be aware that all prices shown on our website do not include duties, local taxes, or any other import charges. In most cases, our parcels pass through customs without VAT being charged. However, for larger orders or certain circumstances, we may need to provide additional information to customs and cooperate with the buyer to supply the required paperwork.
Each destination country has its own import tax threshold, which determines the value of goods that can be imported before import duties are charged. Import duties, taxes, and other charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the buyer’s responsibility, and we are not liable for any delays caused by customs authorities in your country.
For more details regarding applicable fees, we recommend contacting your local customs office.
Hand-formed glass tiles, each one curved and textured like a ripple of water, hung in concentric rings that step inward as they descend. Unlit it has the weight of a piece of Murano-style sculpture. Lit, bulbs nested inside every ring set the whole cascade going — the brightest light on the table, the softest on the faces around it.
Everything you need before you order. Four diameters, eight finish combinations, and a bulb count that changes with the size — check the diameter and the drop against your ceiling before you choose.
| Materials | Textured glass tiles + metal frame |
| Frame, canopy & chain | Metal — gold or black finish |
| Finishes | Amber · Smoke grey · Clear · Green, each with Gold or Black |
| Ø 23.6″ × H 10.2″ | (Dia 60 × H 26 cm) — 9 bulbs |
| Ø 35.4″ × H 13″ | (Dia 90 × H 33 cm) — 18 bulbs |
| Ø 47.2″ × H 17.7″ | (Dia 120 × H 45 cm) — 24 bulbs |
| Ø 59″ × H 17.7″ | (Dia 150 × H 45 cm) — grand format |
| Light source | E12 / E14 small screw base — LED or Edison bulb, not included |
| Bulbs | 9 · 18 · 24 depending on size |
| Dimming | With dimmable bulbs on a compatible wall dimmer |
| Mounting | Ceiling canopy, hardwired to a rated ceiling junction box |
| Chain | 30 cm / 11.8″ standard — longer or shorter on request |
| Control | Standard wall switch, not supplied |
| Voltage | AC 110–240V |
| Placement | IP20 — indoor dry locations only |
On a chandelier the diameter and the ceiling height have to be chosen together. The rule for a table is a fixture about half to two-thirds its width; the rule for the room is that the bottom of the glass sits 75–90 cm above the table top, and well clear of head height anywhere people walk.
H 26 cm. Sized for a dining table up to about 137 cm (54″), a breakfast nook, a study or a bedroom with a 9 ft ceiling. The lightest of the four, and the one that goes into an ordinary room without any structural thought.
H 33 cm. The dining-room size: right over a table of 150–215 cm (60–84″) under a 10 ft ceiling, and the one most often chosen for a principal suite. It needs a mounting point rated for a fixture of this scale.
H 45 cm. Built for a 12 ft ceiling or higher — a grand foyer, a great room, a stairwell seen from two floors, a hotel lobby. The fixing and the chain length both need working out before you order.
The form is identical across all eight. What changes is how much light each tile lets through and how hard the frame reads behind it — which together decide whether the chandelier is the loudest thing in the room or the quietest.
The warmest of the four and the most opaque. Unlit it reads as honey-coloured stone; lit, it pushes every bulb toward candlelight. The one to choose over a dining table, where warm light on faces is the whole job.
Neutral and slightly cool, with the texture reading more sharply than it does in amber. The restrained option — it sits with grey plaster, dark joinery and cooler stone without warming the room.
The brightest and most transparent. The bulbs stay visible through it, so the chandelier reads as a field of small points rather than a glowing mass. Pair it with a decorative filament bulb — here the bulb is part of the design.
Bottle green, almost opaque unlit, warming to olive-gold when it is switched on. The strongest colour of the four and the one that most clearly reads as a material rather than a lampshade.
A warm finish that disappears behind the glass, so the cascade reads as one mass of colour and light. The usual choice with amber and green, and with warm wood, plaster and gold fittings elsewhere in the room.
A hard outline that separates each tier from the next, so you read the structure before the colour. The sharper choice with smoke grey and clear, and with dark joinery, steel windows and painted ceilings.
Bulbs sit inside every ring, not in one cluster at the centre, so the light leaves the fixture at four heights at once. The upper tiers throw it outward and onto the ceiling; the lower ones send it down onto the table. That split is the oldest trick in dining-room lighting — the brightest light on the plates, the softest on the faces.
LIGHTS OFFLIGHTS ON
Four rings of textured glass on metal — a sculpture with the quiet weight of old Murano.
Every tile catches the bulbs at its own angle, so the cascade shimmers rather than shines.
Buy every bulb in the same brand and the same colour temperature. Across twenty-four sources in one fixture, a single odd bulb is visible from the far side of the room.
Every tile is curved across its face, and the tiles stand side by side around each ring. That is why the outline of a tier is a wave rather than a circle — the silhouette is made by the glass itself, not by a shaped frame behind it. Four tiers of it, each stepping inward beneath the last.
Four diameters instead of one. From underneath you read four concentric rings; from across the room, a stepped profile that narrows as it falls. It is the reason the fixture has depth from every seat at the table.
Because each tile curves, no two catch a bulb the same way. The chandelier shimmers rather than shines, and the pattern shifts as you cross the room — which a single moulded shade cannot do.
Tiles lap over their neighbours around each ring, and the tiers are offset against each other, so there is no continuous gap anywhere for a bulb to glare straight through.
The narrowest ring closes the bottom, so there is no exposed plate or visible wiring when you look up at it from the table — which matters more on a chandelier than on anything else.
Seated at the table you see the underside, close enough to read a single tile. Standing in the room you see the stepped profile against the ceiling. From the next room or the stairs you see only the silhouette. The tiered build answers all three: detail close up, depth at middle distance, and a rippled outline that is recognisable from across a hall.
Three components make up the whole chandelier, and the 120 cm uses exactly the same three as the 60 cm. Below, each one at close range: how it is made, what it does structurally, and what it contributes to the light.
Ø 1.4″ × H 4.9″ each. Shaped by hand while the glass is hot, so the curve across the face and the texture through the body are set in the same moment. Every tile on the fixture is shaped this way, and no two are identical.
Each tier is a closed metal ring carrying its tiles and its sockets together. The four rings hang from one central frame at fixed diameters — it is what holds the cascade in shape and takes the weight, invisibly, the way a riverbed carries water.
A round ceiling plate covering the junction box, with 30 cm of chain as standard. Longer or shorter is made to order, so the lowest glass can be set exactly 75–90 cm above a table whatever the ceiling height.
The ripple and the texture are both formed while the glass is still soft, so they run through the body of each tile rather than sitting on its surface. A chipped edge would show the same texture and the same colour all the way through.
Textured glass against a flat metal finish. The glass does all the optical work — refracting, scattering and colouring — while the metal does none of it, which is why the two never compete for attention overhead.
Worked into the glass while it is soft, so it refracts through the thickness of the tile instead of scattering at the surface. It is what turns each bulb into a cluster of highlights.
Amber, smoke grey and green are melted into the glass itself rather than sprayed on, which is why the colour reads as depth and why a chipped edge would be the same colour right through.
Gold or black, with no texture of its own. Seen from below the frame is mostly silhouette, so it is finished to read as an outline rather than as a reflective surface.
Four full rings of glass hang on metal in the largest size. The frame is engineered first and styled second — which is why there is no visible bracing between the rings.
Designed to hold its own as an object, whether the chandelier is switched on or off.
A chandelier at Ø 60 to 150 cm needs the right ceiling as much as the right room. Six positions that work, and the diameter to order for each.
Ø 90 cm over a 150–215 cm table, hung 75–90 cm above it.
Ø 120 cm under a 12 ft ceiling, seen on the way in and on the way up.
Ø 90 cm centred on the seating group, not on the room.
Ø 60 or 90 cm, centred over the bed rather than the foot of it.
Ø 60 or 90 cm, hung low over the chairs so the light stays at conversation level.
Ø 120–150 cm, with matched sizes running through the space.
Four stages between the furnace and the finished chandelier, and every tile on the fixture passes through all four. Nothing is rushed at the cooling stage, because that is what the long-term strength and clarity of the glass depend on.
Molten glass is blown or moulded to achieve balanced proportions, smooth contours and precise optical clarity.
Gradual, controlled cooling removes internal stress — enhancing the glass’s long-term strength, clarity and durability.
Edges and surfaces are refined by skilled artisans, creating a clean, elegant finish that catches the light beautifully.
Each chandelier is assembled with precision hardware and individually tested to ensure even light diffusion before it is packed.
The surface texture runs coarser on some tiles than others.
Depth of colour differs tile to tile across one ring.
Trapped in the glass as it cooled.
The ten questions customers ask most often before ordering a chandelier of this scale.
Aim for a diameter about half to two-thirds the width of the table. Ø 60 cm suits a table up to about 137 cm (54″), Ø 90 cm anchors 150–215 cm (60–84″), and Ø 120 cm and above are built for grand tables and double-height spaces. Under-sizing is the commonest mistake.
Ø 60 cm works under a 9 ft ceiling, Ø 90 cm under 10 ft, and Ø 120 cm is intended for 12 ft or higher. Over a table, set the lowest glass 75–90 cm above the table top; anywhere people walk, keep it well clear of head height.
Yes. 30 cm / 11.8″ is standard, and longer or shorter drops are made to order. Tell us the ceiling height and the table height before you order and we will work the chain out with you — it is set before the chandelier ships.
Gold warms the glass and lets the cascade read as one mass; black outlines each tier so you read the structure first. Amber is the warmest and best over a table, green the strongest colour, smoke grey the most restrained, and clear the brightest — with clear, the bulb you choose becomes part of the design.
Very close, but every tile is formed, textured and cooled by hand, so the ripple, the depth of colour and the odd trapped bubble differ from tile to tile and chandelier to chandelier. That variation is the material, not a defect.
Nine for the Ø 60 cm, eighteen for the Ø 90 cm and twenty-four for the Ø 120 cm, all small screw-base — E14 in Europe, E12 in North America. None are included. Warm white at 2700–3000K suits all four glasses; 4000K and cooler greys them and flattens the texture.
Fittings differ by country, the right bulb depends on which glass you chose, and two dozen glass bulbs rarely survive a long shipment intact. Buying locally gets you the right base, the right brightness and no broken glass in the box.
The chandelier has no dimmer of its own and is operated from a standard wall switch, which is not supplied. Fit dimmable bulbs and wire it to a compatible dimmer and you control the level — check the dimmer suits the total load of nine, eighteen or twenty-four small bulbs.
It hardwires to a ceiling junction box. The box and the fixing above it must be rated for a chandelier of this scale — a standard box is not enough for the larger sizes, so ask us for the shipping figure and give it to your electrician before the day. A licensed electrician and two pairs of hands are strongly recommended.
Switch it off at the wall and let the bulbs cool, then dust the tiles with a dry microfibre cloth or a soft long-handled duster. For a deeper clean use a barely damp cloth, working one ring at a time. Avoid solvents and metal polish, which mark both the texture and the finish.
Contact Metavaya before you order and we’ll work it out with you.
Experience the artistry of handcrafted Italian glass with the Florence Collection. Discover how sculptural chandeliers and sconces transform lighting into fine art.
