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Thank you for your purchase. We hope you are happy with your purchase. However, if you are not completely satisfied with your purchase for any reason, you may return it to us for [a full refund], or [an exchange]. Please see below for more information on our return policy. Please see below for more information on our return policy.
RETURNS
All returns must be made within [30] days of the delivered date. All returned items must be in new and unused condition, with all original tags and labels attached.
RETURN PROCESS
To return an item, please email customer service at support@metavaya.com to obtain a Return Merchandise Authorization. place the item securely in its original packaging, and mail your return to our warehouse.
Please note, you will be responsible for all return shipping charges.
REFUNDS
After receiving your return and inspecting the condition of your item, we will process your [return] or [exchange]. Please allow at least [7] days from the receipt of your item to process your [return] or [exchange]. Refunds may take 1-2 billing cycles to appear on your credit card statement, depending on your credit card company. We will notify you by email when your return has been processed.
EXCEPTIONS
The following items cannot be [returned] or [exchanged]:
For defective or damaged products, please contact us at the contact details below to arrange a refund or exchange.
Please Note：Sale items are FINAL SALE and cannot be returned.
If you have any questions concerning our return policy, please contact us at: support@metavaya.com
At Metavaya, we provide comprehensive customization services to ensure your lighting perfectly fits your space and style. Whether you prefer modern minimalism, industrial chic, or timeless elegance, we are here to craft unique lighting fixtures that bring out the best in your space.
Start by connecting with our experts via live chat or email and share the following details:
We’re here to help you every step of the way!
Q: How much does custom lighting cost?
A: Pricing depends on the complexity of the design, materials, and dimensions. Contact us for a personalized quote.
Q: What is the production and delivery time?
A: It typically takes 4 to 7 weeks, depending on the order's complexity.
Q: Do you offer global shipping?
A: Yes, we provide worldwide shipping, with fees calculated based on destination and order size.
Contact us today to begin creating your bespoke lighting fixture, and let Metavaya illuminate your space with brilliance and style!
Selecting the right size light fixture is essential to achieving both functional lighting and balanced aesthetics. A fixture that’s too small can feel underwhelming, while one that’s too large can overwhelm the space. Use the following guidelines and tips to find the perfect light fixture size for your room.
1. Calculate the Diameter
Use this simple formula to determine the ideal diameter for your light fixture:
Example: 18 feet (Room Length) + 12 feet (Room Width) = 30 feet; The chandelier should be about 30 inches for its diameter
2. How to determine the chandelier’s height
To find the ideal height for a fixture:
Measure the space’s floor to ceiling distance in feet, multiple by 2.5 will be the approximate height for the chandelier in inches. This rule mainly apply to pendant style chandelier while not necessarily apply to ceiling style chandelier.
Example: For example 10 feet (Room Height), 10*2.5 = 25 The chandelier should be about 25 inches for its height
3. How to determine the appropriate height for hanging a chandelier
If you are hanging the chandelier on an open floor, chandelier’s bottom should at least be 7.5 feet away from the floor.
If you are hanging the chandelier above a dining table or kitchen island, chandelier’s bottom should be 30 to 36 inches away from the tabletop.
Besides those general rules that apply to most spaces, there are other rules and tips for different areas, like what size chandelier should be used for the dining room and what about foyers?
Dining Room & Kitchen island
If you are hanging the chandelier above your dining table or kitchen island, you can also decide the size of the chandeliers based on the size of your dining table or kitchen island. We generally recommend that the length or diameter of the chandelier should be between 1/2 and 3/4 of the length of the dining table or kitchen island.
For example, let's say that you have a dining table with 60 inches in length. The chandelier should be between 30 (60 x 1/2) to 45 (60 x 3/4) inches in diameter or length (Same here 1/2 to 3/4 of the kitchen island length)
Two-Story Foyer with Staircase
Besides the general rule that the chandelier’s bottom should be at least 7 and a half feet away from the floor. For two stories, what you also need to consider is how will it look from the second floor. In general, staircase chandeliers will be a good choice for space. In term of placing, below are two commonly seen guidance:
Long Hallways
Chandelier size for hall ways should be determined by the width of the hallway. Multiple the hallway’s width in feet by 2.5 will be the diameter of the chandelier in inches.
For example, the hallway’s width is 8 feet. The chandelier’s diameter should be about 20 (8 x 2.5) inches
If you want to decorate with chandelier for your long hallways. We always recommend having them
Important Note: The features described below apply generally to our lighting fixtures. They do not guarantee that the specific product you are viewing includes these features. Please refer to the Description section of the product page to verify its functionalities.
Dimmable Version:
Three-Color Switch-Controlled Version:
Color temperature defines the visual tone of light, influencing the ambiance and functionality of your space. Here's a guide to help you choose:
Warm White (2700-3300K):
Provides a soft, inviting glow, ideal for creating cozy and relaxing atmospheres in living rooms, bedrooms, and dining areas.
Neutral Light (3300-5300K):
Offers bright, balanced illumination similar to natural daylight. Perfect for kitchens, bathrooms, offices, and retail spaces where clarity and focus are key.
Cool White (5300-6500K):
Produces a crisp, energizing light, enhancing focus and productivity. Best suited for task-oriented spaces such as workshops, garages, and display areas.
Tip: Select the color temperature based on the activities and mood you want to establish in your space to ensure both functional and aesthetic harmony.
Install on solid brick or concrete. NO hollow bricks or gypsum boards. Ensure wall flatness within 0.5mm error.
Confirm bracket hole positions before drilling. Sizes vary by fixture. Each ceiling plate requires specific measurement for alignment.
Standard Duty: ≤15kg. Heavy Duty: 30-50kg. Fix every 40-50cm. Double-person install required for large appliances.
Chandeliers are a timeless addition to any home, offering both style and function. Whether installed above a kitchen island, a dining table, or in a hallway, Chandelier can transform your space. At Metavaya, we want you to feel confident throughout the installation process. Follow our step-by-step guide, and you’ll soon enjoy a beautifully illuminated room!
Step 1: Preparation
Before starting, ensure you have all the tools and follow safety protocols.
Tools You’ll Need:
Ladder, pliers, wire strippers, screwdrivers, power drill(optional), a drill bit(optional)
Safety First:
Turn Off Power: Shut off power at the breaker panel for the room you’re working in.
Test for Power: Use a voltage tester on the wires or fixture to confirm no current is flowing.
Remove the Old Fixture: Carefully unscrew and disconnect the existing light. Retain screws or mounting hardware, as they may be helpful for the new fixture.
Step 2: Assemble the Chandelier
Lay out all parts and assemble your fixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Organize Components: Spread all parts on a flat surface for easy access.
Pre-Assemble Parts: Attach rods, chains, or decorative elements, and set the hanging height to your preference.
Secure Decorations: Attach shades, crystals, or other decorative elements while on the ground to simplify installation.
Step 3: Install the Mounting Bracket
The mounting bracket is vital for a stable and secure fixture.
Attach the Bracket: Secure it to the ceiling junction box using screws provided.
Check Stability: Gently pull on the bracket to ensure it’s firmly in place. For heavier fixtures, use a fan brace or additional support.
Step 4: Connect the Wiring
Wiring is a crucial step—take care to follow these guidelines:
Identify Wires:
Black: Live/hot wire
White: Neutral wire
Green/Bare Copper: Ground wire
Wiring Instructions:
Ground Wire: Connect the pendant’s ground wire to the junction box’s ground wire and secure with a connector.
Neutral Wires: Twist the white wires together and secure with a wire connector.
Live Wires: Connect the black wires and secure them.
Double-Check Connections: Tug each connection gently to ensure they are secure and no bare wires are exposed.
Tip: If you’re unsure about wiring, consult a licensed electrician.
Step 5: Attach the Chandelier
Mount your fixture onto the bracket.
Secure the Fixture: Align the pendant with the mounting bracket and use screws or nuts to fasten it.
Adjust Alignment: Check that the pendant hangs level and at the correct height before tightening fully.
Step 6: Finalize Setup
Add the finishing touches to your fixture.
Insert Bulbs: Use the recommended wattage and type for your Chandelier.
Attach Shades or Covers: Secure any shades or covers not attached earlier.
Stability Check: Ensure all components are secure and the fixture hangs level.
Step 7: Test Your Light
Restore power and enjoy your new lighting!
Restore Power: Switch the breaker back on.
Flip the Switch: Turn on the Chandelier to check functionality.
Make Final Adjustments: Step back to assess height and alignment, and make any necessary tweaks.
Additional Tips for Chandelier Installation
Optimal Heights:
Support for Heavy Fixtures:
Ensure your ceiling junction box and bracket can support the pendant’s weight. For heavy fixtures, use additional reinforcement like a fan brace.
Professional Assistance:
If you’re unsure about wiring or want to ensure compliance with building codes, hire a licensed electrician for peace of mind.
Step 8: Check
Congratulation, you have completed the installation for your chandelier! One last thing to do is to check it from a distant just to make sure that the chandelier is leveled and at proper height. Make additional small adjustment as needed. After ensuring safety, you can turn on your house’s power switch and the light switch for the chandelier. Now you can enjoy the beautiful chandelier that you just installed for your home.
We hope this blog will be able to provide you an overall view about the chandelier’s installation process as well as step by step guidance when you are doing the installation. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us and we are always here to help!
Please be aware that all prices shown on our website do not include duties, local taxes, or any other import charges. In most cases, our parcels pass through customs without VAT being charged. However, for larger orders or certain circumstances, we may need to provide additional information to customs and cooperate with the buyer to supply the required paperwork.
Each destination country has its own import tax threshold, which determines the value of goods that can be imported before import duties are charged. Import duties, taxes, and other charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost. These charges are the buyer’s responsibility, and we are not liable for any delays caused by customs authorities in your country.
For more details regarding applicable fees, we recommend contacting your local customs office.
Thick ribbons of hand-formed glass, each one bent into a slow wave and hung over a metal rod, in three courses that step forward and back. The outline is square; every edge of it ripples. At eye level, where a wall light actually lives, that is close enough to read the texture in the glass — and close enough for the three bulbs inside to throw a wave of their own across the wall behind.
One size, eight finish combinations, three bulbs. Everything below is what the fixture is and how it goes on the wall — check the mounting height and the switch against your room before you order.
| Materials | Textured glass + metal frame |
| Frame, rods & backplate | Metal — gold or black finish |
| Finishes | Amber · Smoke grey · Clear · Green, each with Gold or Black |
| 10.2″ × 10.2″ | (26 × 26 cm) — one size |
| Light source | E12 / E14 small screw base — LED or Edison bulb, not included |
| Bulbs | 3 sockets |
| Dimming | With dimmable bulbs on a compatible wall dimmer |
| Mounting | Flush wall mount, hardwired to a wall junction box |
| Mount height | Centre 60–66″ / 152–168 cm from the floor |
| Control | Standard wall switch, not supplied |
| Voltage | AC 110–240V |
| Placement | Indoor dry locations only |
A wall sconce has only one measurement that really matters, and it is not the fixture — it is how high you put it. Centre it at 60–66″ and the glass sits at standing eye level, where the texture reads and the glare does not. Beside a mirror and beside a bed the rules change, and both are below.
Measured from the floor to the centre of the fixture — roughly standing eye level. Higher and you lose the texture in the glass; lower and the bulbs come into direct view as you walk past.
Flanking a vanity or entry mirror, set the pair 36–40″ apart with their centres at roughly 65″. Light arriving from both sides at face height is the reason sconces beat a light above the mirror.
A run of sconces wants an even rhythm, not a crowd. Eight to ten feet between centres keeps the pools of light reading as one sequence rather than as separate lamps.
A bedside sconce is read while you are sitting, not standing. Mount the centre at 30–36″ above the mattress and set it 6–10″ out from the edge of the bed, so the light falls on a page rather than into the other person’s eyes. Done this way, the pair frees both nightstands completely.
The sconce hardwires to a wall junction box and runs from your own wall switch, which is not supplied. If there is no box where you want the light, that is an electrician’s job and worth settling before the fixture arrives — it decides the height as much as the rule above does.
The glass decides the colour of the light; the metal decides how much structure you see behind it. Gold warms the glass and half disappears into it. Black draws every rod as a line, so you read the frame and the ribbons as two separate things.
The warmest pairing of the eight. Lit, the whole fixture goes the colour of a lantern; unlit it reads as honey-coloured stone. The one for a hallway or a dining wall, where warm light on faces is the job.
Grey glass over warm metal — the light stays neutral while the frame keeps it from feeling cold. The texture in the glass reads harder here than it does in amber, because less colour is in the way.
The brightest of the eight. The bulbs stay visible through the ribbons, so the sconce reads as light first and object second. Use a decorative filament bulb — with clear glass the bulb is part of the design.
Bottle green, almost opaque unlit, warming to olive-gold the moment it is switched on. The strongest colour in the range and the one that most obviously reads as a material rather than a shade.
The same warm glass with a hard outline behind it. Each rod stays visible as a dark line, so you read the three courses before you read the colour — the sharper way to use amber.
The most restrained combination in the range. Grey glass, black frame, nothing warm anywhere — it sits with steel windows, dark joinery and painted walls without arguing with any of them.
The most graphic of the eight. Clear ribbons against black rods turn the fixture into a drawing of itself: you see the structure completely, and the only colour in it is the bulb.
Deepest of the eight. The black frame pulls the green darker still unlit, which makes the switch-on more of an event — the colour arrives all at once rather than being there all along.
Warm, low-sheen gold. Behind glass it half disappears, so the sconce reads as one mass of colour. The usual choice with amber and green, and with warm wood, plaster, and brass fittings elsewhere in the room.
Matt black that holds its own line against the glass. Every rod stays legible, which suits clear and smoke grey, and picks up black window frames, dark cabinetry and painted trim.
Three bulbs sit behind the middle course, not one in the centre, so the light leaves the fixture through every ribbon at a slightly different angle. Some of it comes forward through the glass; the rest escapes between the ribbons and lands on the wall. That second half is the part most wall lights never give you.
LIGHTS OFFLIGHTS ON
Three courses of textured glass on metal — an object on the wall before it is ever a lamp.
Every ribbon takes the bulbs at its own angle, so the fixture shimmers rather than glares.
Buy all three bulbs in the same brand and the same colour temperature. In a fixture this small, with three sources this close together, one odd bulb is obvious from the other side of the room.
Every piece of glass on this sconce is the same shape: a thick ribbon with a wave down each long edge, bent over a metal rod so both ends hang free. Line them up and the courses square off into a block; look at any edge of that block and it ripples. That contradiction — square from across the room, curved from arm’s length — is the whole design.
Three components make up the whole fixture, and there is no fourth hiding anywhere. Below, each one at close range: how it is made, what it does structurally, and what it contributes to the light.
Thick enough to hold its own shape, worked while hot so the wave down each edge and the texture through the body are set in the same moment. Every ribbon on the fixture is formed this way, and no two are identical.
Each course hangs from a single round rod carried on the frame. The rod takes all the weight and sets the spacing; because it is round and thin, it reads as a drawn line behind the glass rather than as a bracket.
A flat metal plate covers the junction box and carries the frame out from the wall. It mounts flush, so there is no visible conduit and no gap between the fixture and the plaster once it is up.
The wave and the texture are both formed while the glass is still soft, so they run through the body of each ribbon rather than sitting on its surface. A chipped edge would show the same texture and the same colour all the way through.
Thick textured glass against thin flat metal. The glass does all the optical work — refracting, scattering and colouring — while the metal does none of it. At eye level, where every detail is visible, that division of labour is what keeps the fixture calm.
Worked into the glass while it is soft, so it refracts through the full thickness of the ribbon instead of scattering at the surface. It is what turns three bulbs into dozens of highlights.
Amber, smoke grey and green are melted into the glass itself rather than sprayed on, which is why the colour reads as depth and why a chipped edge would be the same colour right through.
Gold or black, with no texture of its own. The rods are drawn as fine as the weight allows, so what you see behind the glass is a line rather than a bracket.
A wall sconce is looked at from a foot away, which hides nothing. Edges, joints and the back of the frame are finished to the same standard as the face.
Designed to hold its own as an object, whether the sconce is switched on or off.
Wall lights do their best work in pairs and rhythms, not alone. Six positions that work, and whether to order one, two or a run.
A run of three or four, 8–10 ft between centres, turning a corridor into a sequence.
A pair, 36–40″ apart, lighting a face from both sides instead of from above.
A pair at 30–36″ above the mattress — it frees both nightstands completely.
A pair flanking a fireplace, a sofa or a piece of art, at standing eye level.
A pair either side of the reading corner, lighting the chair rather than the whole room.
A pair on the long wall, matched to an Ondine chandelier over the table.
Four stages between the furnace and the finished sconce, and every ribbon on the fixture passes through all four. Nothing is rushed at the cooling stage, because that is what the long-term strength and clarity of the glass depend on.
Molten glass is blown or moulded to achieve balanced proportions, smooth contours and precise optical clarity.
Gradual, controlled cooling removes internal stress — enhancing the glass’s long-term strength, clarity and durability.
Edges and surfaces are refined by skilled artisans, creating a clean, elegant finish that catches the light beautifully.
Each sconce is assembled with precision hardware and individually tested to ensure even light diffusion before it is packed.
The surface runs coarser on some ribbons than others.
Depth of colour differs ribbon to ribbon across one course.
Trapped in the glass as it cooled.
The ten questions customers ask most often before ordering a wall sconce.
Centre the fixture 60–66″ (152–168 cm) from the floor on an open wall — roughly standing eye level. Beside a bed, drop it to 30–36″ above the mattress, because there you read it sitting down.
Flanking a mirror, 36–40″ between centres. Down a hallway, 8–10 ft. Either side of a bed, 6–10″ out from the edge of the mattress. The spacing matters more than the exact height.
Two, in most positions. A single sconce lights one spot and looks like a leftover; a pair reads as a deliberate decision and lights a face or a mirror evenly from both sides. Corridors and staircases are the exception, where a run of three or four is the point.
Gold warms the glass and half disappears into it; black keeps every rod visible so you read the structure. Amber is the warmest and best in a hallway or dining room, green the strongest colour, smoke grey the most restrained, clear the brightest — and with clear, the bulb you choose becomes part of the design.
Very close, but every ribbon is formed, textured and cooled by hand, so the wave, the depth of colour and the odd trapped bubble differ from ribbon to ribbon and sconce to sconce. That variation is the material, not a defect — and it is why a pair never looks machine-matched.
Three, small screw-base — E14 in Europe, E12 in North America. None are included. Warm white at 2700–3000K suits all four glasses; 4000K and cooler greys the glass and flattens the pattern it throws on the wall.
Fittings differ by country, the right bulb depends on which glass you chose, and glass bulbs rarely survive a long shipment intact. Buying locally gets you the right base, the right brightness and no broken glass in the box.
The sconce has no dimmer of its own and runs from a standard wall switch, which is not supplied. Fit dimmable bulbs and wire it to a compatible dimmer and you control the level — worth doing, because this fixture is at its best turned down.
Hardwired to a wall junction box and controlled by your own wall switch; a licensed electrician is recommended. It is rated for indoor dry locations, so beside a vanity mirror in a dry, well-ventilated bathroom is fine — directly above a tub or inside a shower is not.
Switch it off at the wall and let the bulbs cool, then wipe the glass with a soft lint-free cloth, barely damp, and dry it straight away. Wipe the metal with a dry cloth only. Avoid abrasive pads, solvents and metal polish, which mark both the texture and the finish.
Contact Metavaya before you order and we’ll work the spacing and the heights out with you.
Experience the artistry of handcrafted Italian glass with the Florence Collection. Discover how sculptural chandeliers and sconces transform lighting into fine art.
